Highlights of the Baltic Sea

The Baltic Sea is a thriving cruise destination again. Environmental issues have held back growth in recent years, but the region is currently in the ascendancy once again. Total passengers are expected to increase by 13.0% in 2017, while calls are set to grow by 15.2% according to the Cruise Baltic Market Review 2017

The mood among delegates at the Cruise Baltic Summit in Kalmar, Sweden, reflected this confidence, with ports, destinations, cruise lines and other industry stakeholders all particularly upbeat about the years ahead. This is a region rich in maritime history and tradition, so unsurprisingly, the cruise line representatives in attendance were keen to highlight the continuous improvement cycle that is driving port development and service excellence in most destinations. Cruise Baltic plays an important role in sharing best practices and driving quality standards across the cruise product. This year for example, the organisation has delivered workshops on place branding and on sustainability.

In between conference sessions and touring around delightful Kalmar, casual conversation was predominately concerned with how to win and keep more business. Most destinations approach cruise lines with the acceptably selfish motive of getting placed in an itinerary. Too often though, this approach is made with too little consideration that a cruise line sells a full itinerary and not just a single destination. Certainly, planners are approachable prospects for destination sellers, but winning their business requires more than just a passing interest in the wider market opportunity. The most successful port purveyors will have an intimate knowledge of sailing times in their region, how to build a perfectly blended itinerary, the attributes of neighbouring destinations and the existing itineraries (and their popularity) of all the ships that sail in their region. Of course, home knowledge is essential, as is the art of listening and acting on advice given – knowing ‘not now’ does not mean ‘not ever’, and being ready to seize the chance when it’s given. These are attributes common among Cruise Baltic members, a comfortably familial association where delegates happily celebrate their neighbour’s success.

Other wisdom gleaned in Kalmar included: the importance of local cruise networks to get the whole destination behind its cruise industry aspirations; the transparent berthing policy required to keep cruise clients happy and avoid congestion; the characteristics that can be found in highly rated destinations to give focus on building a more attractive product; and the breadth and depth of shorex offerings required to fill seats and generate good local and cruise line revenue. Relating to this last topic, the quantity and quality of available guides is a common theme at industry events. Passenger satisfaction can be at opposite ends of the scale depending on the strength of the guide leading a tour. And while the Baltic countries all appear to be managing these resources well, it is a global problem that needs to find a best practice solution. Certainly, Baltic destinations are not short of compelling attractions to be guided around.

40,000 fairytales
Klaipeda may not trump its popular neighbours in a game of winner takes all cruise calls, but this magical pixie playground offers an appealing alternative for cruise lines seeking to offer their repeat guests some respite from the familiar tour of Baltic capitals. The industrial harbour approach masks the appeal of the oldest city in Lithuania – this is a cruise destination with a very bright future. Within a few hundred yards of the cruise pier, the port cargo landscape fades and is replaced by fachwerk buildings lining quaint narrow streets, named after the trades that thrived here in 1252 – bakers, cobblers and messengers. The town is quite charming and a guided tour, starting in Theatre Square, is rewarded with countless historical and fabled stories. Observant city explorers will uncover many little gems to enrich their visit, perhaps most noteworthy are the dozens of sculptures that all tell stories of this medieval town’s past. There are also some strong tour offerings outside town – Palanga is a beautiful resort destination, 25km north of Klaipeda, that draws thousands of summer visitors. But the most unique nearby attraction is the Curonian Spit, just a five minute ferry hop across the lagoon. Locally referred to as the pearl of the Baltic, the spit is a 98km prehistoric sand dune peninsular, added to the World Heritage list due to its comfortable harmony between man and nature. The sand dunes, including the towering 52 metre Great Dune, are home to the Thomas Mann and Maritime museums, Dolphinarium and Witches Hill. It is on a hike here that so many of the country’s fairy-tales are recounted within an exposition of dozens of ornate wooden sculptures of witches, devils, dragons and serpents. Klaipeda lives up to the legend.

Saaremaa lore
The quiet Estonian island of Saaremaa offers a relatively new state-owned cruise harbour on the outskirts of Kuressaare, run by the Port of Tallinn. Combining a call here with Tallinn (not just for the chunky discounts on offer) would give guests a compelling rural-urban blend to maximise the Estonian destination immersion experience – the multi-generational buzz that, when delivered, results in exponentially elevated ratings. With an annual average of just half a dozen calls over the last ten years, the shore-side product is not yet fully optimised, but there is a core of half a dozen attractions which create a promising collection of options. Woods, windmills and wildlife dominate the landscape. The town itself has a number of historic buildings, including the tourist office, which is a natural starting point for a walking tour. But the unrivalled highlight is Kuressaare, an unexpected showstopper fortress for such a small town. Combination tours will likely get you back on the bus after a drink by the castle moat for the short ride to Kaali – a field of craters formed 7,500 years ago by a meteor strike. Kaali is bewitching and now fulfils wishes for visiting tourists who are willing to suffer the temporary embarrassment of being spotted cuddling a tree. Any redness quickly fades away at the next stop, along with wrinkles that retreat under the renowned rejuvenating powers of the waters of the hidden bubbling woodland river. Folklore is just lore in Saaremaa.

A reimagined old town
Everyone knows and loves Tallinn – the marquee port that sells an eastern Baltic cruise. Certainly it is well-supported by numerous bucket-list destinations, but this is the star striker that can’t be dropped. Nevertheless, here is a destination that continues to evolve, one that continues to rewrite its own masterplan to sustain the enviable position as captain of a champion team. A guided or independent journey through the old town is a long-time favourite for visitors but the route they take is changing. The city now boasts two new quarters. The first, the Rotermann Quarter, is a collection of restored industrial buildings that have been given a new life. The countless shops, eateries, plaza and architecture provides a welcome diversion on a walk to the old town – guides will surely pause here for refreshment on a city tour. The second, Telliskivi Creative City, is a short hop across the other side of town. Telliskivi is undoubtedly hip – giving both locals and tourists a stark bohemian contrast to the more familiar city haunts. This once forbidden side of town has become a vibrant underground magnet for creative minds, drawn to the pervasive edginess that rips the knees of the most conservative genes. Tallinn is a remarkable case study for proponents of urban renewal.

Norwegian beauty
Kristiansand boasts an understated elegance, a worthy playground for those seeking historical relevance and natural beauty. This city is positively conflicted – it’s pretty but demure façade masks the spirited activity that is plentiful on land and sea. The current cruise tour brochure boasts a portfolio of 34 options, each compellingly different to suit every tastes and there is certainly no sign of any space fillers. There are some easy combinations to drive shorex revenues – mixing a local tasting experience (food or beer) with a big-hitter attraction and some majestic views will guarantee rave reviews. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the big hitters are mostly natural experiences and very likely will be best sellers if they take to the canals and sea. Alternatively, a segway city tour provides the opportunity to embrace the land-based mix of attractions, whizzing from the fortress to the old town, then on to the cathedral followed by the city beach. For many, the best Kristiansand experience will be by boat and the city has plenty of them. The archipelago can be experienced by clinker, yacht, schooner or steamboat. Total satisfaction can be achieved by a return trip to Lillesand, with a famous apple cake break at Lillesand Hotel Norge.

The magic of Arendal
The current Trinity Church has towered above the Arendal skyline since 1888, but the site’s original church, built in 1669, predates the town. Fittingly, Trefoldighetskirken is the first stop on a walking tour of Tyholmen, the oldest district of Arendal. There are a dozen notable stops on an easy route around the town, with each delivering sights and anecdotes to captivate an inquisitive mind. The Kallevig Mansion, built between 1812 and 1815, is an obvious example. Kallevig’s neighbour, Christian Fürst, was enraged by the design and colour of the new building because it looked like he lived in one of the mansion’s stables, so he painted his house a different colour. Kallevig liked having a bigger looking house so he repainted it to match his neighbour’s. And so ensued a paint battle that went on for years. Other walking tour highlights include Klockers Hus, a former wealthy burgher’s house that has been converted into a museum that bakes fresh bread and houses the biggest collection of ships models in bottles in the world. Like Kristiansand, spanning seven islands, Arendal is best explored by boat – whether to the picturesque car-free island of Merdø to laze at the beach or over to Tromøy for a little more excitement at the high rope course. The obligatory finale for every visit should be spent in Pollen to experience the legendary Arendal hospitality. The harbour area boasts an eclectic selection of bars and restaurants to end a perfect day.

Capital assets
Most surprising thing about Oslo is how much there is still left to see after half a dozen previous visits – not just new attractions, but new things to see and explore at places that have been visited before. This is a big city that knows what it’s doing when it comes to sustaining a demanding tourism trade, regardless of their route of entry. The port is a polished operation – new and improved facilities add to the impressive assets that are worked effectively, and are admirably demonstrated for us at the new Harbor Promenade where Regal Princess was efficiently disembarking happy passengers. Our day in Oslo provided opportunity to briefly sample a few of the options that could each happily consume a half or full day tour for passengers. There are so many attractions in this city that it seems unfair to single any out for specific praise, but those that we did visit did not disappoint. My personal highlight was a second visit to Vigeland Park, this time escorted by a guide who underlined the value of a paid tour over an independent visit (note to younger self). The stories told here by Gustav Vigeland in over 200 sculptures go mostly unheard by the solo wanderer but are emotionally retold by a knowledgeable guide. The fabulous City Hall, unmissable Noble Peace Centre, glorious Opera House, dramatic Holmenkollen Ski Jump, remarkable Munch Museum and unique Viking Ships Museum are all worthy of their given adjectives but my second favourite attraction in the city is the gritty Fram Museum. Maritime and explorer curiosity is overwhelmingly fulfilled in the tales of Nansen, Amundsen and Sverdrup’s daring exploits. The opportunity to tread the same decks occupied by these legendary polar explorers is one of many unique treats that Oslo offers to present-day seafaring visitors, nay explorers.

Arnaldo Zanonato, senior manager port adventures, Disney Cruise Line reflected on our journey. “Personally experiencing these destinations gives us the chance to see the potential of each place and provide constructive feedback to our stakeholders,” he said. “It has been refreshing to see the diversity of the destinations in the Baltic Sea, both culturally and visually, but also from a maturity perspective. The combination of large cities that are seasoned destinations with so many smaller up-and-coming ports makes the region extremely well positioned for the future.” And so say all of us.

In brief
Aalborg’s new waterfront development is winning plaudits from passengers disembarking at the Royal Cruise Berth but the Happy Hotdogs are the cause of the biggest smiles! The town square is just a 200m walk and the hundreds of shops and restaurants that circle it provide the perfect starting point for a tour by ‘the best hosts in the Baltic,’ according to Lars Bech, cruise manager, VisitAalborg.

Elsinore is looking to build on its two calls in 2016 with a little help from Hamlet returning to Kronborg Castle again in 2017. Four years after its opening, the adjacent ‘hole in the ground’ Maritime Museum of Denmark has become a firm favourite with tourists but with over 30 popular attractions within an hour of the town, Elsinore continues to make cruise passengers think hard about their day in port.

Fredericia has made solid inroads into securing cruise calls with eight visits in 2017. But exponential growth is just around the corner. There’s plenty of excitement about the opening of Lego House in September, but the big buzz is all about the 2020 unveiling of Hans Christian Anderson Universe.

Gdansk has been finding favour with cruise lines that are trying to bump up the number of countries they can count on a Baltic itinerary. But this medieval city warrants much more than the 32 calls it received last year. The Royal Route is the most popular tour where guided passengers will delight at tales of the Teutonic Knights, saints and royalty. Kalmar is the Swedish Summer Town of the Year for the third consecutive year and unless many thousands of Swedes have got it wrong, Kalmar is sure to be a big hit with cruise guests too. With just four calls in 2016, Sweden must be conspiring to keep this tourist hotspot all for themselves, but as the popular host of the Cruise Baltic conference this year, word will soon get out.

Kalundborg is relatively new to the cruise scene, with a first modern cruise call in 2004. Esbern Snare led the Crusaders here around 1150, giving the town a big history that is perfectly captured in the many historic buildings, castles, churches and museums. But there is fun and adventure here too – Kragerup Go High, Bon Bon Land and other activities for all generations are just a short ride away.

Malmö is known for unrivalled food experiences and as Sweden’s biking capital. This small city is rapidly gaining a big reputation in the cruise business. Boasting the transport infrastructure and other facilities of a much bigger city, Malmö is also seeking a reputation as a viable turnaround alternative to its much bigger Danish neighbour.